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Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Watch Repair 101: Automatic Mainspring Hand Service





Removing and Reinstalling an automatic mainspring by hand.




Wednesday, 10 June 2015

Watch Repair Tools

As I have promised in a previous post, I'll show and explain all the basic watch repair tools and materials one has to have in order to properly service a watch. Most of the items featured here are Swiss Made as I believe in quality, although it can be rather expensive but the Swiss makes quality stuff especially those by Bergeon, A*F is also good by the way.

As a friend once told me, buy cheap buy twice. Because, when you buy cheap stuff, the day will come when it fails to function properly and you will think about buying better stuff. Hence, buying twice.

Alright, enough with the ranting, and lets start with the tools.

TOOLS

Loupe / Magnifier

The most important tool for the watch repairer, is the loupe or magnifier as some call it. Without this, you cannot do anything watch related at all as the parts are tiny, microscopic. The loupe enables you to see the parts properly, and repair it. 

The loupe I got was a 2-inch focus or approximately 5x. Buy a good quality loupe here as it involves your eyes. Cheap loupes tend to distort the image and makes your job worse. I bought a Bergeon No.2611 loupe, 2-inch focus.

Loupe


Screwdrivers

The next most important tool is screwdrivers. A watch movement is held together by screws, tiny ones. Therefore, screwdrivers are very important and its best to buy good quality ones too, especially the blades. Cheap blades tend to dull easily and chip. Furthermore, with cheap screwdrivers it runs the risk of marring the screw head. 

I bought rather good quality Chinese made ones, and I replaced the blades upon buying with good quality Swiss blades made by A*F. Common sizes are 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6 mm. 

Screwdrivers

Tweezers

Another important tool is tweezers which are extensions of your hand. It enables you to pick up the tiny watch parts and reach into the narrow spaces to adjust the parts.

Good quality tweezers is a must, if you get the wrong quality tweezers they either can't pick up the parts or it will send it flying into oblivion. Dumont are the best, but pricey. I got a pair of them for general work. Pictured is a Vetus for finer parts, as I seldom use this, I bought Vetus which is more economically priced.

General sizes are #3 for general work, #5 for fine work, and a pair of brass tweezers for soft parts. 

Tweezers

Oiler

Oilers are tools for which you pick up the right amount of oil to lubricate the watch. Watch oilers are specially designed to pick up the correct amount of oil required to lubricate the watch. It only picks up a minuscule amount which is all the watch needs. 

Here, its best to buy a good quality oiler as its tip is shaped correctly (see inset of 2nd photo). I bought a Bergeon Fine oiler. 

Oiler 
Inset: Shape of oiler tip

Movement Holder

Another tool essential to repairing is the Movement Holder. This tool holds the watch movement while you disassemble or assemble it. Without this, you cannot repair a watch. 

Here, same goes buy good quality. Cheap ones can't hold the movement well, making your servicing a nightmare. 

I bought a Bergeon No. 4040 movement holder.

Movement Holder

Oil Cup

As its name denotes, an oil cup is a tool which holds the oils and greases used in servicing watches. We do not take the oil directly each time from the bottle as this will cause contamination of the stock oil. What we do is, we take a clean oiler and transfer a few drops of oil from the bottle to the oil cup for use. When oiling the watch, the oil is taken from the cup.

Here, you can buy cheap, it has no other function other than holding the oil. I bought an economy priced chinese made plastic oil cup with 3 wells. Note: Always keep the oil cup covered to prevent contamination of oil in the cups.

Oil Cup

Blower

A blower blows air. This tool is used to blow the dust off the watch when assembling and to dry parts after cleaning. It is also used to blow at the gears to test for freedom of movement. An indispensable tool, never blow a watch movement with your mouth. 

You can buy cheap here, as the cheap ones work as well as the expensive ones. Test the rubber, if its rather plastic then don't buy it as it'll crack later. Buy those with a natural rubber feel. 

Blower

Case Holder

This tool is used to hold the watch case steady while you open the caseback or close it. It comes in Aluminum as well as Wood. I prefer this aluminum one as its more sturdy and I can clamp it in my bench vise. 

I bought an economy priced but quality one made in India. 

Case Holder

Materials and Consumables

Finger Cots

Finger cots are mini gloves for your fingers. It prevents oils and dirt from our fingers landing in the watch during assembly stage. Put in on the fingers handling the watch movement.

These can be bought at the nearest chemist/ pharmacy shop.

Finger Cots

Lighter Fluid/ Naphtha


When overhauling a watch movement, all parts need to be cleaned. In professional shops, they have specialized cleaning solutions. But for hobbyists, it is sufficient to use the traditional method of hand cleaning with Naphtha or more commonly found is lighter fluid, the same stuff different names. 

Use in an open space with good ventilation. Wear full hand gloves, not finger cots. Clean parts using an artist brush.

Lighter fluid

Watch Oil 

This is a fine watch oil used to oil the train wheels and other fast moving parts in the watch requiring lubrication.

I bought Novostar B, Swiss Made. Another option is the pricier Moebius 9010.

Watch Oil

Watch Grease

In oiling watches, certain slow moving parts and high friction parts require not oil but grease as it is heavier and stays in place. This grease is also used in the keyless works, winding mechanism, and mainspring barrel as well as the mainspring. 

I bought Moebius 8300 as in Malaysia, it stays as a grease compared to 8200 which becomes a thick oil instead. (its too hot here)

Watch Grease

Silicone Grease

Silicone grease is used to grease the watch gaskets to ensure water tightness. Its used to grease the caseback gasket, crown gasket, bezel gasket, and pushers for chronograph.

I bought the good quality one made by Seiko.

Silicone Grease

Alright everyone, that's all for today. Will follow up soon with my overhauling project. Thanks for looking and stay tuned for more.